FROM DODO TO CROW
Taking the Measure of a Bird Mind
The woods are cool, dark, and mostly quiet except for the occasional birdcall from somewhere in the thick canopy above, a patchwork of emerald, lichen, avocado, and a dark, coppery, almost iridescent green. This is typical mountainous rainforest on the island of New Caledonia, a remote tropical finger of land in the southwest Pacific, halfway between
Australia and Fiji. The Parc des Grandes Fougères is named for
the giant tree ferns that grow to seven stories and give this forest a truly primeval feel. The trail I’m following climbs for a while, then dips down toward a stream, where the birdsongs and calls grow louder.